Massachusetts
The Berkshires (September 6 & 7)
We got off to a great start leaving Lexington at 8:45am. Our trip over the Blue Water Bridge through Canada was uneventful, but we had to wait in line an hour for customs getting back into the U.S. at Niagara. Jackie’s written crabby notes about how long it takes to get back in the U.S. from over the Blue Water Bridge. Now we know it’s not a local problem.
We expected there would be a Visitor Center as we came into New York but no! Instead they have billboards that list their website. So… no free New York map. This was particularly disconcerting for Jackie because she spends time looking at the map as Barb does the driving. Although it was getting dark, we didn’t want to get caught in Albany traffic the next morning so we continued on to Pittsfield, Massachusetts in the Berkshire Hills for the night.
We ate a late dinner in the bar at the Hilton Garden Inn while discussing Calvin Johnson’s participating on the next generation of “Dancing with the Stars.” Barb contended that unlike previous contenders Emmitt Smith and Jerry Rice, Megatron is not a national star. Jackie, of course, vehemently disagreed so we had our waitress quiz the folks sitting at the bar. A couple had heard the name, but didn’t know who he was. However, when we stopped by the desk to ask a question on the way back to the room, I asked a fellow who was standing there. He not only knew who Calvin Johnson is, he knew how tall he was, why he stopped playing football, etc. So, it was a tie (in Jackie’s mind anyway!).
The next morning we took off for Lenox which was only a few miles away. 
Jackie had worked at the Curtis Hotel between her junior and senior year of college. The Curtis is still there, but now it is for senior living (figures!) with a couple of businesses on the first floor. We were able to get in to look around and it was still quite lovely.
Lenox is still small in population, but has many more shops and restaurants than it did 48 years ago. As Jackie came out of a coffee shop, she thought she saw Jake Gyllenhaal walk in. He was carrying a small laptop so she didn’t think it was him. However, an hour later she was kicking herself for not going back in… especially when she read he’d been shooting a movie in Massachusetts the previous spring
Our next stop was a couple of miles down the hill to the Tanglewood Music Center. 
The season has ended, but the Boston Symphony still performs there during the summer, and many symphony members hold workshops there.
Next, we headed to Stockbridge which is known for the Red Lion Inn, 
Arlo Gutherie, and James Taylor. What we didn’t know is it is also home to the Norman Rockwell Museum. (He lived there during the latter part of his life.) We spent a couple of hours using an audio tour guide and attending a lecture to learn about his life and art. We admired his iconic paintings and over 300 covers he created for the Saturday Evening Post. Appreciating his attention to detail in his illustrations and his commentary on social issues that he expressed through his painting, we agreed this is our favorite kind of art.
On our way to Boston, we stopped in Lee, which appeared quite pretty the previous evening. During the day, it’s not so nice. Not worth a stop.
Boston (August 7-10)
Travel and Lodging
Our drive wasn’t too scary because it took us through Cambridge rather than the middle of the city. We were welcomed at the Bowers House Bed and Breakfast by a very friendly lady who could not speak English. The owner Steve was shopping, but arrived a short while later and gave us much information about using the T (subway), restaurants to try, and places to visit. Chris, Steve’s wife gave us lots more information at breakfast. She moved here from Beijing about twenty years to earn her master’s at Northwestern.
Close to the Davis Square Station which takes you right into the thick of things in Boston, the B&B is well-located. However, the owners don’t do a good job registering people. We happened to have stopped off when a couple from England arrived to register. Neither Steve nor Chris was around. The couple did not have a phone. We called the owners and left a message. When they called back, we learned they had sent the couple an email about checking in, but the couple did not have email access in the US so had never received it.
Our plan was not to drive in Boston. Travel is 
easy on the T (subway). We figured our best bet was to purchase a 7 day pass for $21. We only needed it for four days, but would use at least twice a day and it cost $2.75 per ride. The T worked well. It was clean and efficient – we never had more than a five-minute wait. When we left, we gave our passes to that young couple from England.
The City Hop on-Hop off Trolley tour was a great way to get a sense of the Boston. This narrated tour took us through the Freedom Trail, by the Convention Center, the Financial District, and across the river to where the USS Constitution is moored. Our driver warned that the roads are like spaghetti. He was right. Like Lexington, Boston has water on the east, but also on the north and south. More than once while walking the Freedom Trail, we tripled our trip from one destination to the next. But… the city is interesting so it didn’t matter.
Food and Beverages
A great variety of food is available in Boston.
Harvard Square – South of the Border – very good Mexican and Cajun food.
By the waterfront – At Tia’s (which is about three blocks from Quincy Market), we shared Seafood Fra Diavolo, a delicious seafood medley.
Somerville – The Diesel Café has good sandwiches and an industrial atmosphere with bikes hanging on the wall, an old gas pump, etc.
Freedom Trail – We happened upon the oldest taverns in Boston – Ye Old Union Oyster House, Bell in Hand Tavern, and Green Dragon Tavern and quenched our thirst at the latter which dates back to 1654 and was a favorite of Paul Revere. A reproduction of the Cheers Bar was added to Quincy Market in 2001. What a nice find—we drank a beer and toasted Norm.
Universities
Boston is known for its many universities. We visited both Harvard and MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology). Harvard has many lovely old buildings. MIT has several modern and quirky buildings. Quite a contrast to Harvard!
Freedom Trail
Using an audio tour guide we downloaded on our cell phones, we walked the Freedom Trail. Seeing the places we learned so about in school brings history to life.
We visited the three museum sites: the Old South Meeting House, Old State House and the Paul Revere House. At the Old South Meeting House, we heard how five thousand people gathered there in protest of British rule, and it was there Samuel Adams gave the signal to dump the tea into the Boston Harbor.
The Boston Massacre took place right outside the Old State House (pictured here), and the Declaration of Independence was read from its balcony. Much to learn about here so we attended three lectures: one about the building and the many changes that have taken place in it over time, another about the massacre, and a third was a character lecture – a cooper from 1766. The Old State House was the center of activity for the Boston colonists. In 1768, when the legislature refused to stop protesting the British taxes, the British officials dissolved the legislature and instead sent in troops.
The Paul Revere House impressed us because so many of the furnishings are original. Paul Revere and his first wife had eight children. After she died, he remarried and had eight more children with his second wife. Revere outlived most of his children.
Street Entertainers often perform by Faneuil Hall. 
They make it clear that their sole source of income is what they receive from their audience and suggest $5. They were good; it was worth it.
Kilted Colin was our favorite. As he juggled and played the bagpipes he kept us in stitches. See how he culminated his act by riding a unicycle – still playing the bagpipes.
We loved the Freedom Trail and spent MANY, many hours exploring it.
Harbor Tour
The Harbor Tour was free with our City Hop on-Hop off Tour. It was nice seeing Boston from a different perspective. (Besides… we like boats.)
We met a couple from Australia who had nothing good to say about Trump. We learned that it is compulsory to vote, even in local elections, in Australia. If you don’t vote, you are fined.
Afterwards we meandered through little Italy because it is charming and has many restaurants. Because it looked so Italian, had big open windows and a hostess who spoke very little English, we chose Quattro. We made a reservation, wandered about a bit more, and came back for Brick Oven baked Exotic Mushroom Pizza.
Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum
We spent five hours at the Kennedy Library.
What an amazing place! It brings back fond memories, sad times, and reminds us of what politics could be. We spent part of our time on a tour, but most of it watching videos and viewing artifacts from John Kennedy’s life (including his first sailboat), election and presidency.
A mock-up of the rooms in the White House included a video of the TV show that Jackie did showing the renovation to the White House. Jackie remembered it, but Barb was too young.
Videos of Kennedy’s press conferences were particularly interesting. He was adept at interacting with reporters.
The Library didn’t slide over his blunder with the Bay of Pigs, but they emphasized that he learned from it.
Watching the debates between Kennedy and Nixon and their TV ads and seeing their campaign materials made us even more upset with what’s occurring today with politics.
Salem, Massachusetts (Sept 11)
Salem is primarily known for witchcraft and the witch trials but it’s also a pretty town. Barb was pleased to find a statue of Samantha from “Bewitched,” one of her favorite TV shows.
We took a trolley
tour that took us by many witchcraft sites as well as other literary sites in Salem. Our tour guide, a theater major reminded us of Jim Carrey. He said the witch trial part of Salem’s history was downplayed until they realized they could make money if it became a tourist attraction.
A stickwork display caught our interest because it was created by the same artist who created the one in Vero Beach at the McKee Botanical Garden.
Portsmouth, New Hampshire (Sept 11)
Another lovely town. We were particularly interested in the homes that were built in the 1600-1700’s. After exploring the town a bit, we went to the historic district of the old homes. We didn’t have enough time (recommended two hours) to visit Strawberry Banck which has 39 restored homes, but would have been worth seeing.
Maine
As the crow flies, Maine has 293 miles of coast; however, if you stretch out the jagged coves, jetties, etc., the coast exceeds 4,500 miles. Most of it is rocky, however, so there are only about 5 miles of sandy beach. Maine is only second to Michigan for its number of light houses.
York, Maine (Sept 11)
We stayed with our friend, Marge O’Malley, who we met in Florida a couple of years ago. Her charming home is close to the water. After winding down with a glass of wine we enjoyed a nice dinner at Fogarty’s in S. Berwick.
On the tenth anniversary of 9/11, Barb and I were in York, England. On this, the fifteenth anniversary of 9/11, Barb and I are in York, Maine.
Walking distance from Marge’s home, the Nubble Light House sits just across a channel from York’s Sohier Park. What a lovely light house!
Ogunquit (September 12)
There are three parts of Ogunquit – Perkin’s Cove, the town, and the Marginal Way. With 3-1/2 miles of beach, it’s rated in the top 25 beaches in the U.S.
Perkin’s Cove is a fishing village with quaint shops and restaurants and a wooden foot bridge that is drawbridge to let the larger boats through.
The town is charming with its specialty shops, restaurants, and playhouse. 
The Marginal Way is a paved path that meanders from Perkin’s Cove to Ogunquit Beach. With its breathtaking views of the rocky coast, we stopped many, many times to take pictures.
Kennebunkport (September 12)
After eating delicious lobster rolls at the bar at Allison’s we stopped at a couple shops before heading out to take photos of the Bush Compound, which is located on a peninsula. 
Their house is beautiful. Although we saw some “comings and goings,” we never spotted one of the Bushes.
Portland (Sept. 13)
The drive from York to Portland was fairly straight and took only an hour. We immediately went to Old Port and booked the Portland Discovery Land & Sea Tour. The land tour was via a trolley and went to the various sections of Portland, including a half hour at the Portland Head Light at Fort Williams, which is Maine’s oldest lighthouse. Portland reminds us of Anchorage due to its lack of skyscrapers.
After our trolley tour, we roamed around Old Port, got an ice cream and then went on the “sea” part of the tour which took us into Casco Bay.
There are so many islands in the bay, they are sometimes called the calendar islands because you could visit a different one every day of the year (Exaggeration!). 
We went by several light houses, including Little Bug Lighthouse, Portland Head Light, and Whaleback Lighthouse. This picture is of the Portland Head Light.
Once docked, we walked around a bit before going to dinner at the Old Seaport. It’s right in a working dock area and we spotted a seal. We had to crack the lobster we ordered for dinner. Fortunately, our waitress was nice and she showed us how. Not a pleasant sight!
Parking is expensive in Portland – $40 a day.
We stayed at the Fairfield Inn near the Maine Mall. We planned to stay there for two nights, but decided we had seen enough of Portland so we canceled our reservation for the following night.
Freeport (Sept. 14)
LL Bean is the big show in Freeport. We visited three of their five stores: flagship, outlet and home, but skipped the Boat & Ski store and Hunting and Fishing store. They are located at the prettiest outlet mall we have ever seen.
Brunswick (Sept. 14)
Our next stop was Brunswick, where Bowdoin College is located. We were interested for three reasons:
- We like pretty campuses.
- It’s rated the sixth best liberal arts college in the U.S.
- Both Longfellow and Hawthorne graduated from there.
It lived up to our expectations.
Bath (Sept. 14)
Bath has been a ship building center since the early 1600’s. Bath Ironworks is HUGE and it needs to be; they build nuclear naval vessels and large merchant ships.
We focused on the Maine Maritime Museum, which is located on a 19th century shipyard where large wooden sailing ships were built. The highlight is a life-sized sculpture of the Wyoming, the largest wooden ship built in the United States.
Look closely to get a sense of the size. Jackie is standing by the fifth flag.
We spent three hours touring their five original buildings. Through photographs, videos, and artifacts they demonstrate the process used to build the schooners. Although the sawdust made Jackie sneeze, it was worth it because it made it more real. Their exhibit on lobster fishing gave us great insight into the process of catching what we were eating.
Although traffic has been light, we found that between the curvy roads, hills, and hidden driveways it takes at least twice as long to get anywhere. If the distance is 20 miles, plan 40 – 60 minutes to get there. Since the scenery is interesting, no problem!
Boothbay (Sept. 14 – Sept. 16)
A footbridge connects the two sides of Boothbay Harbor. One side is sedate with several inns, bed and breakfasts, restaurants, galleries and homes while the other bustles with the harbor, shops, and more restaurants, 
galleries, and lodging. After checking into the Rocktide Inn, we headed across the foot bridge to the busier side of this fishing village. We investigated various boat tours and learned the whale watching season was about done.
Our day ended at the Lobster Dock eating delicious lobster rolls while enchanted by a beautiful sunset.
The next morning we set out to the lovely Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. Although many flowers were past blooming, there was still much of interest as many plants were identified.
Trails lead to the various gardens; we especially enjoyed the Children’s Section where many flowers were still blooming, and there were many descriptions of the various plants. 
Next, we set out for Southport Island where there were many pretty views. Jackie focused on the house right across the water because it had belonged to Margaret Hamilton (Mrs. Gulch/ Wicked Witch of the West).
We returned to Boothbay Harbor, got settled in our bed & breakfast, the Atlantic Ark Inn and then crossed the foot bridge to explore more of the village, and book a ride on a schooner for the next afternoon. We finished the day eating scallops at the Lobster Dock.
Our bed and breakfast is quite formal. A three-course breakfast is served at 9 AM sharp. It was delicious, and it is beneficial to hear from other travelers, but it was a bit late for us; we prefer to be gone by 9 AM.
This morning we visited Wiscasset, a cute town with a harbor and nice shops. Their claim to fame is Reds Eats, a lobster pound where folks line up by 10:30 AM – much too early for lobster for us!
Then, we took a lovely ride to Ocean Point in East Boothbay. The photograph is of the smooth rocks we walked on before returning to Boothbay Harbor.
After devouring a cone from the Downeast Ice Cream shop for lunch, we boarded the Eastwind Schooner for a two-hour cruise. We scheduled it for when there would be plenty of wind so the sails would be up and the boat would move at a quick pace.
There were about twenty passengers. We chose the port side because it is 
supposed to have the best views. Maybe, but with the wind the schooner leaned on its side. The mate told us to sit on the floor with our feet against the edge. We complied, but that meant that for over an hour our view was mostly of water. We heard stories about the area and what the folks on the starboard side were seeing, and the boat tilted back in time for us to see the lobster traps.
Then, we headed to Shannon’s (lobster pound) because of their wonderful reviews; however, the sign said they were sold out. So, we went to Kaler’s where Jackie enjoyed delicious crab and shrimp cakes.
Damariscotta (Sept. 17)
The next morning it took only about 35 minutes to get to Damariscotta, which is quite pretty. Reny’s, a family owned business has 16 stores scattered around Maine, but their original store is like a step back in time.
Pemaquid Light House (Sept. 17)
Our next venture was about 45 minutes away to Bristol and the Pemaquid Light House. First built in 1827, it crumbled because salt water had been used in the mortar. It was rebuilt eight years later with only fresh water used. The old light house keeper’s quarters is now a museum.
Rockland (Sept. 17)
We took the scenic route (75 minutes) to Rockland we looked around their Visitor Center and headed to the breakwall, which is almost a mile long and goes out in the middle of the harbor. It was windy and the walkway is made of uneven granite segments so we passed it up and headed to Camden.
Camden (Sept. 17-19)
Our lodging, Inns at Blackberry Commons in Camden was delightful. After garnering all sorts of information from the owner Jim, we walked a few blocks into town. The name “Camden” conjures up New Jersey industry, but it’s anything but. What a wonderful city! The shops and restaurants are nestled along the harbor with Mount Battie as a backdrop. 
We watched the sun set over the harbor while having dinner at the Waterfront Restaurant.
From 8 to 9:30 AM at the Inn, girls from Slovenia serve a gourmet breakfast. It included such items as “Spiced Baked Pears with crème fraiche” which Jackie loved, but Barb… not so much.
Although the weather was cloudy with rain predicted, after church we went up to Mt. Battie in the state park to catch breath-taking views of the city, harbor, and Penobscot Bay. The overcast sky wasn’t conducive for viewing so we went back to the city and meandered around the shops, then went back when it brightened up.
We smiled at the crossing signs on the streets and obeyed them
In the evening, we chose Peter Ott’s on the Water for another nice dinner and more beautiful sunset views.
Bucksport (Sept. 19)
We headed out in drizzle and overcast skies to stop in Belfast on our way to Fort Knox and the Penobscot Narrows Observatory by Bucksport. Of course, Fort Knox is not the Fort Knox, but it is a fun place to visit.
Jackie, of course, had to have her picture taken by an Amish buggy disguised as an ambulance.
Fort Knox was never much of a fort. Maine was involved in many disputes during the American Revolution and the War of 1812 so it was established in 1844 to protect the Penobscot River valley against possible future British naval attacks. The attacks ceased, the fort was only used for training, and it maintains many original features. 
Since the drizzle continued, we skipped the Penobscot Narrows bridge observatory, the tallest public bridge observatory in the world. We did get an interesting view of Bucksport across the narrows from the fort. It was a worthwhile stop.
Bar Harbor & Acadia National Park (Sept. 19 to 22)
In the afternoon, we arrived at the Coach Stop Inn, which was built in 1804 and has remained an inn ever since. The wide plank floors and Quaker décor reminded us it is old, but there are plenty of electric outlets and good Internet reception.
The Inn is well located… four miles to Acadia National Park’s main visitor center and four more miles 
to Bar Harbor’s town center. We spent our first evening checking out the town. There are many, many stores… plenty of funny magnets.
Fog rolled in the next morning, but was predicted to clear later and become partly sunny. After a delicious gourmet breakfast, we headed to the Acadia N.P. Visitor Center to acclimate ourselves. We had purchased a $25 parking pass online before we arrived. A ranger gave us a map of the park and the routes of the free Explorer shuttle buses.
We had booked a tour on Lulu’s Lobster boat for the following day, but changed it to today. After investigating more of the town and eating ice cream for lunch, we caught the 1 pm tour. We made the right decision. Although less dense, it was still foggy. We loved this tour! It was fun to be on a boat, but the best part was Captain John, a knowledgeable and great speaker. In addition to learning about lobsters and lobster trapping, we learned about light houses and other marine life.
We also spotted marine life – seals!
The weather cleared. After an early dinner at Stewman’s Downtown Lobster Pound, we went to an area that appeared to be a good spot to watch a sunset… and it was… 
complete with kayakers coming in on one side and low tide on the other for us to stand on. What a perfect way to end our day!
It was clear the next morning as we headed out to Acadia N.P. We used the free Explorer Shuttle Bus, rather than our car for transportation which was fortunate; at our first stop – Bubble Pond, the parking lot was roped off – NO PARKING. Bubble Pond is peaceful and serene. 
We found one of the seventeen carriage road bridges that our friends, Mike and Jamie, had told us about. John D. Rockefeller and family financed 47 miles of carriage roads so persons could walk or ride on horses, bikes, or in carriages on motor free byways and have beautiful views in park
Our next stop was Jordan Pond. Mountains in the background and stones it the water make it a perfect place to wander. We returned to their outdoor restaurant to devour one of their famous popovers.
We grabbed the shuttle bus to Thunder Hole. When the weather is windy with a storm brewing, waves smack against the rocks and come up through the hole 
making lots of racket. The day was beautiful so there was little action.
We hiked down to Sand Beach and then took the shuttle back to Jordan Pond for a late lunch and another walk before shuttling back to the Visitor Center.
We drove back up Mt. Cadillac to catch the sunset. Since the sun was to set at 6:33 pm, in order to get a good spot on the Blue Hill Overlook we planned to be up there by 5:15 PM. 
Our plan worked; both the sunset and “after sunset” were amazing.
The next day we checked out of the Coach Inn and at noon caught a three-hour boat tour through Acadia NP, Northeast Harbor, Sea harbor, the village of Southwest Harbor, and the Somes Sound into a fjard (a small fjord). The boat was small – it held about 18 passengers.
Riding by vertical cliffs viewing the park from the water gave us a different perspective of it. We spotted harbor seals, a bald eagle, and osprey.
Then, we took off for Schoodic 
Point which is down the east peninsula of Acadia NP. It took nearly an hour and a half to get there, but was worth it. The shoreline consists of exposed and weathered red granite that varies from 10 to 100 feet in width from the ocean to the beginning of where the plants are. Barb traipsed all over the rocks.
We had done very little planning for Quebec and Montreal because that part of our trip was weather dependent. Much to our delight the weather cooperated so that evening we headed north and singing on the way to “Destination: Bangor, Maine” for the night.
Quebec City (Sept. 23& 24)
Going north through Canada, the color got more vivid. We got an early start, booked a room on the way, and by 2:30 PM we arrived at the Hotel Palace Royal, located a couple blocks outside the walled Old Quebec City. The Hop On-Hop Off bus tour ended at 5 PM, so we saved it for the next day.
We roamed the upper Ville, spent time at the impressive Chateau Frontenac and then listened to a jazz band at the Alexander Pub.
The next morning we got an excellent overview of the city from the upper deck of the Hop on-Hop off bus. We rode by many historic sites, Plains of Abraham and the Citadel of Quebec. We should have taken it the previous day because we discovered the Quartier Petit Champlain, the lower ville (city). It reminded Jackie of her favorite part of Europe.
Meandering through the narrow streets, we admired the beautiful architecture. So mesmerized was Jackie by the frescoes that she joined one of them. After sharing a crepe at restaurant in the lower ville looking over one of the picturesque streets, we walked in the Old Port along the St. Lawrence River. 
We headed back to the upper ville strolling around Rue St. Jean, Parliament Hill, and above the city on the fortification.
Neither of us speaks French, other than “Merci” and the like so we wondered how we’d be treated. We had heard that many people speak English, but pretend not to. We found everyone helpful and friendly.
We reluctantly left at 3 PM for Montreal and stayed in a suburb at the Hilton Garden Inn.
Montreal (Sept. 25)
Construction! Montreal is fixing its highways and cobblestone streets. What a mess!
We arrived at Old Montreal by 9 AM quickly noticed some distinctions between Old Montreal and Old Quebec City. The architecture is more like the upper ville in Quebec City and there wasn’t a section like the old ville. Montreal is dirtier and more homeless people are visible in doorways and on benches, however it is still pretty.
Our plan was to attend the 11 AM Mass at the Basilica of Notre Dame because that was when the choir was singing. We quickly noticed that something was going on in the old city… a race with 34,000 participants so many streets were closed and it was difficult to navigate. Nonetheless, we were able to get a flavor of the city – especially enjoying the waterfront and the cobble-stoned Saint Paul Street.
The Basilica is beautiful. 
Although the Mass was in French, they provided a hand out with the English translation of the readings. The priest was animated… wish we could have understood what he said. Soon after the service we headed toward home.
We stayed in Mississauga, west of Toronto for the night and arrived home the next afternoon.
Wonderful trip!
pinchontheroad 